Neferiye Winery - Agroforestry Wine?

Chris Vannoy

2 days ago5 min read

Unique Naturally Fermented Agroforestry Wines in Bodrum.

There is something undeniably intriguing about Neferiye Winery. A name that is unfamiliar to many, yet one that seems to be quietly making waves in Turkey’s natural wine movement. Owned by Çağlar Bozçağa, Neferiye Winery has taken a completely different approach from conventional Turkish vineyards. Instead of neat rows of trellised vines in a meticulously maintained vineyard, Bozçağa has embraced a more untamed philosophy—one that is deeply intertwined with nature. I've only just learned about this wine maker but wanted to share the discovery.

At the heart of Neferiye Winery’s philosophy

is agroforestry winemaking, something I have not encountered before in Turkey. Unlike traditional vineyard setups, this method involves vines growing naturally, wrapped around pine, oak, and menengiç (a type of wild pistachio tree). The result is an environment where the vines and trees coexist, with the grapes benefiting from the shade and biodiversity that the forest provides. From what I have gathered, these vines are spread across approximately 2,000 hectares in the mountainous region of Fesleğen, located about 600 meters above sea level. The high altitude and cooler climate, along with the natural shade from the trees, reportedly delay ripening, allowing for a slow and extended growing season.

Clusters of dark grapes hang on a vine against a textured tree trunk, surrounded by vibrant green leaves. Bright, sunny outdoor setting.

Grape Varieties

One of the most fascinating aspects of Neferiye Winery is its use of forgotten local grape varieties that were never cultivated in the structured way that many commercial vineyards rely on today. According to available sources, these grapes were originally planted in the first half of the 20th century and have continued to grow naturally, undisturbed. Among them is *Ak Üzüm*, a white grape with characteristics yet to be fully documented, and *Kanlıkara*, also known as “blood red grape.” This grape is said to have been historically exported by Greek winemakers from the Bodrum and Milas regions. Locals refer to it as *Eşek Üzümü*, or “donkey grape,” as it was not considered suitable for fresh consumption and was often left for the donkeys. Another indigenous variety, *Panik Üzüm*, is also used in winemaking, with one of Neferiye’s early releases being a blend of Kanlıkara and Panik Üzüm. This wine, produced at 13.4% alcohol, was extremely limited, with only 1,240 bottles made. Their first commercial release of Kanlıkara in 2019 consisted of just 348 bottles.

The soil composition in this region is described as sandy loam with underlying layers of clay and pebbles—conditions that, at least theoretically, should provide good drainage while still retaining enough moisture to support the deep-rooted vines. While this is promising for viticulture, it raises some questions about how these vines have survived for decades without human intervention and whether they are naturally resilient or simply adapted to their environment in a way that cultivated vines are not.

Beyond the uniqueness of its viticulture, Neferiye Winery also has deep connections to another notable name in Bodrum’s food and wine scene. The Bozçağa brothers are well known for running Orfoz Restaurant, a highly regarded establishment that has been recognized by the Michelin Guide (2024) and Gault & Millau. This connection suggests that the philosophy behind Neferiye Winery is not just about making wine but also about curating a gastronomic experience that reflects the region’s biodiversity and history.

For those interested in natural wines, Neferiye Winery’s approach seems to align with the principles of minimal intervention winemaking. All their wines are naturally fermented, avoiding commercial yeast, and made with as little interference as possible. However, this commitment to purity raises questions about consistency and stability—something that natural wines often struggle with. Without firsthand experience, it is difficult to assess whether Neferiye’s wines manage to balance this raw, unfiltered style while still offering a structured and age-worthy product.

Wine label showing a cartoon donkey with grapes. Text: NEFERİYE, KANLIKARA, 2019, BODRUM, GAROVA. Light background, whimsical mood.

There are also whispers of early critical recognition. A 2015 Neferiye Shiraz reportedly caught the attention of Andreas Larsson, while a 2016 Neferiye Kanlıkara was described by Caroline Hermann as featuring fresh red fruit and early oak, though she suggested that an unoaked version might be preferable. The winery’s 2016 releases also included a White Zinfandel and Chardonnay with a handwritten label, adding to its artisanal and small-batch appeal. The winery has even drawn early comments from Turkish wine critic Vedat Milor in 2006 .

Adding to the mystique, Bozçağa himself has reportedly spent years exploring the high-altitude villages of Bodrum in search of these forgotten grape varieties. Since 2016, he has been hunting down remote vineyards and working closely with local farmers to understand the history and potential of these vines. His Instagram page suggests a strong emphasis on highlighting the farmers behind these wines, giving credit to the hands that prune, tend, and harvest—a refreshing contrast to the often flashy and elitist image of winemaking.

Yet, for all the intrigue surrounding Neferiye Winery, there are still many unknowns. How do these wines compare to other Turkish natural wines? Do they hold up in terms of structure and longevity? And perhaps most importantly, how does the agroforestry method truly impact the flavor and complexity of the wines? The scarcity of bottles and the lack of widespread distribution make it difficult to gauge their reception beyond a niche circle of enthusiasts. I look forward to an upcoming trip to Bodrum and to the mountains where the grapes are grown.

With such limited production and a focus on rediscovered varieties, Neferiye Winery could be pioneering a new movement in Turkish winemaking—one that bridges ancient viticultural practices with modern natural wine philosophies. Or, it could be an interesting experiment, one that is still finding its footing in an increasingly competitive industry. Either way, it is a name worth watching, if only to see where this journey of rediscovery leads.

As someone who has yet to visit Neferiye Winery or taste its wines firsthand, I remain cautiously intrigued. There is something undeniably romantic about the idea of lost vineyards, of vines growing wild in the forests, untouched by modern chemicals and interventions. But the reality of natural winemaking is often unpredictable, and without experiencing it personally, it is difficult to say whether Neferiye Winery is a revolution in Turkish wine or simply a fascinating footnote in its evolution.

For those interested in exploring truly unique expressions of Turkish terroir, Neferiye Winery presents an opportunity to engage with something rare, unconventional, and deeply rooted in history. Whether that translates into a consistently outstanding wine remains to be seen, but for now, it stands as an exciting, if enigmatic, presence in Turkey’s ever-evolving wine landscape.